jpage
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![[*]](./images/aventure/default_icon.gif) posted on 2/1/10 at 11:03 AM |
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wiring
I am nearly at the wiring/purchase of electrical component/equipment stage. I have no backround with electrical anything. I have a 12V book, and
have looked online, and am still unclear what the best simple but foolproof system is for my SA20. I need a two battery system. I will have the
usual equipment: forward nav lights, aft all-round/anchor light, cabin lights, gps/depth, instrument lights, 12v outlets, VHF, maybe horn, electric
start and maybe tilt. I will probaby want a master switch possibly with an ACR (auto charging relay). Unsure whether to go with a fuse panel with
nifty switches and LED's, or with a fuse block and individual switches as necessary. I haven't really figured out bus bars, or how instrument lights
are wired, or much of anything. Anyone have a diagram and/or thoughts of where best to install master switch, panel, etc?
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SkiffAmerica
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| posted on 2/1/10 at 04:27 PM |
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I recommend getting a West Marine Catalog (the big one)........they have much valuable info in there to explain choices like you are pondering. And
you can see the components to do what you need.
Are you sure you need two batteries? Bill Dulin used to think he needed two but now carries only one. We both use deep cycle from Walmart and do
fine.
Incidentally Bill says the motor will start easily with a rope if needed.
Kilburn p.s. when you get it all figured out let us know. That goes for anyone else who has it figured out.
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jpage
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 09:16 AM |
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If it were just me I could easily get by with one, but my wife needs to run a device at night that draws about 2 amps, which over 2 nights will draw a
battery down significantly. I want her to feel welcome and comfortable on the boat, thus the plan for two. I'm still considering the KISS
alternative, just one for most usage, and borrow the deep cycle from my other boat for the relatively rare days she sleeps aboard. I think I can run
the device off a 12v outlet that just clamps to the temp second battery. That would save money, time and weight, and if overnights are a big hit, I
could retrofit easily enough. Decisions decisions!
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genelueg
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| posted on 2/4/10 at 11:14 PM |
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I'm comtemplating the wiring now myself. I bought a 6 fuse panel from duckworks which is like Kilburns. I have a picture of his. Will send it if you
give me your email. I have a friend who is going to help me wire mine. He is one of those people gifted in electronics/wiring. He is on his month in
Viet Nam now but hope to get him on it when he returns. Will be glad to share what we do.
Gene
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genelueg
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| posted on 2/5/10 at 11:10 PM |
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My email is genenkay@gmail.com
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SkiffAmerica
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| posted on 2/8/10 at 06:19 AM |
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Gene.........can you send me that picture of my 6 fuse electrical panel. Not only have I forgotten I had a 6 fuse panel but I don't remember where it
is. Does the photo show location? Any help would be appreciated. My 'old timers disease' might be acting up again. I hate it when that happens.
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genelueg
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| posted on 2/8/10 at 09:33 PM |
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Uh, oh! Have I goofed again. I got it off of Paul's pictures and somehow I thought it was one you had sent him. I will send it on to you so I can be
corrected. Please use the whip lightly. smile
Gene
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cope
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| posted on 6/8/10 at 10:25 AM |
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I wired mine with the intention of adding a 2nd battery (which I haven't done yet) , so I put a battery selector switch in the mix. Adds a bit of $
to the process, but may be worth the time if you want to run your radio on the beach or lights for the night. I also included a big main fuse (80amp)
and a small box with 12 fuses.
The big main fuse protects the fuse box and the 12 bank fuse box makes the whole wiring process much easier If/when you blow a fuse later, it's much
easier to find it than if you use random in line fuseable links. Also easier to add an appliance later.
I thought wiring would be a big project, but once I got it all figured out in my head and had all the components, I got it all done in about 4 hrs.
Make sure to use all the proper connectors on the line ends and I would strongly suggest thermal shrink fit tubing at every place where you have a
connector. The shrink fit helps keep the water out and reduces the strain on the wire at the bend. Shrinkfit is available at Harbor freight in a
little pkg with various sizes for just a few bucks. It's probably also available at home depot/lowes/ace
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-heat-shrink-wire-wrap-assortment-9639.html?utm_source=hftusa&utm_medium=hftusa&utm_camp
aign=buylink
Tried to attach a pic, and I'll most likely be at rend lake this sunday if anyone wants to take a gander
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jpage
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| posted on 6/11/10 at 10:13 AM |
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Thanks for the wiring info. I haven't started wiring yet, but I have purchased some of the hardware, including a battery switch and fuse panel. My
two-battery plan has reverted to a single battery system. I want to install a built-in charger, and in speaking with the Guest tech I was advised
their chargers do not work well with two six-volt batteries connected in series. It will charge the first but won't fully charge the second. So I
will go with a conventional single battery system, and I will have a second battery holder installed for the (probably relatively rare) occasion that
my wife sleeps on the boat. I have a couple Group 24 gel batteries on another boat that I can switch out as needed. The single battery approach will
make installation a bit easier and save weight and cost of a second battery.
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