tomt
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posted on 3/8/10 at 08:58 PM |
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Finished Xynole Finally
Well finally finished applying the Xynole. Im tired of sanding and picking white dust out of my nose!
Been looking at several of finished boats for color scheme. Probably going to go with the traditional red white and blue but was wondering does anyone
know if Donavan used the blue as specified in the plans or did he use a custom color? I would like to know but unsure how to contact him.
anyway I'll try and attach a pic of my boat after the Xynole is on
Also as a side note I found a brand new Yamaha 25 at a local dealer that was going out of business. It is a 2007 model but was still in the factory
crate, picked it up including controls for 2700.00. Thought it was a good find. If anyone else is looking I can go by and see if they have anymore.
tomt has attached this image:
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tomt
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posted on 3/8/10 at 09:00 PM |
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Here is a pic of the motor. Pulled it out of the crate this weekend and made this temporary stand until I mount it.
tomt has attached this image:
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jpage
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posted on 3/9/10 at 08:38 AM |
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Nice job! I'll be starting this phase in a couple months when it warms up. Do you extend the Xynole over the sides of the stem? Over the leading
edge of the stem? Do you cover the transom, and if so, how do you handle the corner where the sides and transom join. This is probably all spelled
out clearly in the instructions, I just haven't read the glassing part in quite a while.
Joel
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tomt
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posted on 3/9/10 at 05:29 PM |
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You can bring it all the way to the gunnel but I left a space of about 2 inches and filled the gap with a slurry of epoxy / microballoons. I didn't
see the need to bring it up all the way and I didn't want to have to sand into the edge of the gunnel
I guess you could wrap the whole transom but I wanted to finish most of my transom natural so I brought the edges around the transom about 5 inches
and they taper off to about 2 inches on the chines.
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jpage
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posted on 3/10/10 at 09:55 AM |
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I reread the instructions this morning, they answered most of my questions. How did you handle the transom edges, where the chine panel and transom
meet? Just cut out the excess and butt the edges, or cut and overlap, or....?
Joel
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genelueg
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posted on 3/10/10 at 09:51 PM |
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Tom must have used a lot of extra Zynole and epoxy. If you cut the second 21' piece in half the long way it will not make it to the gunnel but will
overlap both joints and completely cover the chine panels. I went about 4" beyond each joint. Zynole requires a huge amount of epoxy to cover not to
mention the extra sanding and smoothing with filler. Also excess coverage adds weight. I wrapped the stem as per instructions. Going around corners I
cut a "V" notch and overlapped. You will lose some strength if you do not overlap. It is strongly recommended that you wear breathing protection
when doing sanding of epoxy.
Gene
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tomt
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posted on 3/11/10 at 09:11 PM |
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Not sure about the 21' inch piece your talking about. I ordered 15 yards of xynole from RAKA they sell it in 62" width which is 2 inches wider than
the 60" from defender. I used 7 yards to basically cover the bottom then cut another 7 yards in half which gave me 31" of fabric to play with. 31"
will cover the bow from the gunnell to 4 inches past the tape joint.
And yes I agree dust mask / respirator is critical while sanding but you will ultimately suck some up your nose.
Just comes with the territory
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bymiller
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posted on 4/14/10 at 08:21 AM |
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Donovan's website is skiffamerica.com
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